Arising from the fact that it relies on bacteria producing high levels of lactic acid as a defence mechanism, the yamahai method can result in sake which some can find heavy and cloying – imagine the heavy notes of the richest Chardonnay. Consisting exclusively of sake that uses this method, the Hiwata range is thus positioned in such a way as to dispel such preconceptions, as with this example. With a light presence that gradually expands into a gentle, savory flavor of rice grain, and a pleasant sourness on the finish, this will keep you coming back for sip after sip without palate fatigue – more in common with something like a fine Chablis.
Marrying the traditional yamahai-style, which emphasizes a natural preparation, with the primeval Omachi rice variety gives rise to the zenith of the Hiwata range – the Junmai Daiginjo. With a velvet-smooth texture, rigid yet refined body, and symphonic after-notes, this sake delivers a crescendo only heightened when set against harmonious dishes.